Book Review – Turn Right at Machu Picchu

After years of working as a travel writer, Mark Adams decided to follow the route of early-twentieth-century explorer Hiram Bingham through Peru to Machu Picchu. Bingham, sponsored by Yale University and the National Geographic Foundation, was considered the discoverer of Machu Picchu after his first trip in 1911 (despite the facts that farmers were growing crops on the site when he arrived).

Machu Picchu has been a place of conflict and mystery from the 1600s when Incas fled there to escape Spanish conquistadors up to the present day. What was its purpose? Did Hiram Bingham steal artifacts that are now part of Yale University’s collection? Who owns the land on which Machu Picchu sits? Adams’ book is thoroughly researched and explores many of the major theories about Machu Picchu, although some mysteries remain unresolved.

While the historical parts of the book were interesting, the best parts described the trip itself. Adams has decided that he wants to retrace Hiram Bingham’s expedition, and in his initial meeting with his guide, John Lievers, he throws out the idea of hiking the Inca Trail. From this starting point, Lievers rattles off a suggested route for a one-month hike that sounds intimidating, if not impossible.

They set off from the city of Cusco, Peru with a crew of four local men, six mules, and a giant bag of coca leaves, which are used in Peru to treat the symptoms of altitude sickness.

Adams is thrown into the world of the serious outdoorsman with little hiking or camping experience, which makes for an entertaining book. Some stories are hilarious and others are wince-inducing, like the day he learned to wear two pairs of socks under his boots after destroying his toes on a long downhill hike.

By the end, Adams reaches Machu Picchu, appreciates the spectacular architecture and astronomical alignments, pooh-poohs the mystical attraction that draws pilgrims from all over the world to the site’s New Age energies, and climbs Huayna Picchu, a mountain peak at the north end of Machu Picchu to see the sun rise over the ruins.

I don’t love the idea that it took one expert guide, six mules and a four-man team to get Adams to Machu Picchu, because I like my adventures a little more self-sufficient. But it was an entertaining read and although the historical exploration isn’t really my thing, I learned some stuff about the politics of discovery.

Did the book inspire me to book a ticket to Peru? No. But it did made me think that maybe I won’t wait until I’m turning 41 like Mark Adams to take off and have more adventures.